Aki and I approached Kamakura’s Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine through the Ni no Torii (second gate). Gravel crunching loudly under our feet, we walked the dankazura (a raised avenue) between the already leafless cherry trees as people have for centuries.
To our surprise a marriage ceremony is under way in the Maiden, or open pavilion in front of the shrine where performances of various kinds and weddings are held.
Along with others who have gathered to watch, we witness the exchange of rings, the family vows and sake ceremony that are part of a traditional Shinto wedding.
Later, after viewing the main shrine and drawing our fortunes—I get daikichi or great good luck—we see the young couple about to ride off in a rickshaw. They look so rich and smart and pleased with themselves in their wedding finery. They’re young and beautiful. Now she can’t be called kurisumasu keki (left-over Christmas cake, stale and not wanted after 25).
Alas, often marriage, too, goes quickly stale. I wish them great good luck.




I don’t usually bother with fortunes when I visit a shrine. Prayers, too. I generally don’t ask for anything, but offer thanks for the opportunity & experience. I figure that simply being in that moment–in any moment, really, as it’s the only one I have–is all the fortune I need.
Aki insisted on drawing our fortunes. Seeing that it meant so much to her to do it, I went along with it to please her more than anything else. Mine was in English which was great. I still have it in my collection of ticket stubs and brochures.
As for “wedding crasher” photos, I’m sure that there were at least 500 others doing the same thing during the ceremony. As I’d not seen a wedding before and this one was on public display, we paused for 10 or 15 minutes before moving on.
I’m smiling because I know now that I’m not the only one who has taken “Wedding crasher” photos in Japan. As for omikuji – I drew a “Chukichi” at the Hachimangu in Kamakura. Did you get an English one or a Japanese one? The one I got at Uesugi Jinja on New Year’s Day was a “Shokichi”. Goes without saying that one was left tied to a branch.