Heading to Kyoto to Relax: Part 2

Kyoto, once the seat of the Japanese Imperial Court (794 – 1869), is also known as Heian-kyo meaning tranquility and peace capital. How could you not relax in this city with a name like that?

In fact, Kyoto is an ideal destination for any traveller seeking the pleasures of Japan—other than those bent on dissipations that Tokyo and other larger cities offer. The debauched might find Kyoto a bit sedate. Continue reading

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Heading to Kyoto to Relax: Part 1

After a week of staying in her home and touring the Kyotamba area together, my friend Kyoko drops me off at Sonobe Station. Now I’m rocking toward Kyoto on the JR Sagano Line, heading back to the city for a little solo adventure. Kyoto, one of my favourite Japanese cities, is a perfect place in which to be at ease and relax. Continue reading

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Sayonara, Rinda-san

Before leaving Kyotamba, Kyoko and I return to the Hiyoshi Springs onsen (hot spring bath) one last time. By week’s end the women seem to have warmed to me. One who must be in her 90s–hands gnarled by arthritis and right breast scraped away by a careless surgeon years ago–grins at me. Her sunken, toothless crescent is bashful. Her eyes sparkle with wordless farewell. Continue reading

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Famous crackers and bean cakes

Senbei are ubiquitous in Japan. Many varieties of the savoury (but sometimes sweet) and crunchy, bite-sized crackers are regional specialties. For that reason (and because they are light and keep well) they are popular as omiyage (obligatory gifts). Continue reading

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Tamba Winery

Today we pile into Kyoko’s car for a tour of Tamba Winery in Toriino, not far from her home. Vintner and winery founder Tetsuo Kuroi chose this area for its rich soil and climatic conditions. Here the average day to night temperature fluctuations are some of the most extreme in Japan and ideal for wine production. Continue reading

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Kitamura Traditional Japanese Village

On our way through various locales in Kyotamba, Kyoko and I stop for lunch and wander around Kitamura village in Miyama-cho afterwards. Here numerous homes built in the traditional way with thatched roofs have been preserved. I am continuously amazed at such sites, to see the manner in which natural materials are used. Continue reading

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Kurotani Japanese Paper Museum

Knowing my keen interest in history and culture, Kyoko takes me around the Kyotamba countryside via secondary roads. Our first stop of the day is at Kurotani Japanese Paper Museum in Ayabe. Here 800 years of making traditional washi paper by hand is still alive.

Today the site is closed in preparation for a festival which begins tomorrow; however, Kyoko’s status as the (then) president of the Kyoto ISC and her pleas for her Canadian visitor gains us entry to the site even though we can’t see it in action. Bonus, we see all of it without a crush of people blocking the view. Continue reading

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Hokkaido Crab

Our affable tour guide Inoue-san has given Kyoko a fresh crab from Hokkaido. The large and lively beast barely wedges into her pot. Naturally, it isn’t eager to go in. Yesterday we saw others at the Tore Tore Ichiba (Maizuru’s fish market), but none as big as this. I’m guessing that this one must have set him back at least 150-200 (Canadian) dollars. When I mention it Kyoko shrugs. He’s rich, she says. Continue reading

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Hosen-in Temple, Kyoto

Inoue-san, who has been our genial host and chauffeur all day, finds a parking spot in an open area and leads us into a local neighbourhood. A shortcut he says. We walk along a pleasant stream, up a short slope, stop to purchase and enjoy dried persimmons along the way. Continue reading

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Grass Blooms (Issa)

In my province grass blooms too.
waga kuni wa kusa sae sakinu sakura kana
Kobayashi Issa

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