On the Ground in Tokyo

Day one (and two counting the International Dateline) the Air Canada Flight 003 pilots got us into Narita on air like glass. No one sat in the two seats next to me; therefore, I spent 5 of the 10 hours horizontal and snoozing. Not quite the luxe mattress I have at home, but along with many other little kindnesses and astonishing blessings along the way, that was another and infinitely better than sitting upright. Customs was no problem.  My luggage shipped and was at my apartment moments after 10 AM check-in. All splendid.

However. Oh yes. A substantial however. Shortly before boarding in Vancouver I received an email from Sogetsu Kaikan administration that due to COVID-19 classes were cancelled for the month of March. Not long before, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe had urged all public schools to close; therefore, the announcement did not come as a huge surprise. I’d played what if scenarios in my mind some days before when Akane Festa, the celebration of Sogetsu Iemoto’s (current hereditary Grand Master) 60th birthday which I’d been invited to attend had been postponed.

Then another development while I blissfully slept the night before take-off (Japan is a day ahead of Vancouver). People began panic buying toilet paper (as well as paper towels, sanitary products and diapers), carting buggies of the stuff out of Costco and clearing the shelves in every store. Somehow a rumour had flamed across the Internet that supplies out of China were going to stop.

When I saw that news after landing I knew that level of doo-doo might take a great deal more level Buddha-mind than I’d anticipated. The real estate company gives me a starter set of three rolls. After that I have to supply my own.

Truth is, Japan produces its own and has plenty. Just not on the shelves of any stores. On the bright side, Japanese homes don’t have insulation as we do in North America. I like to imagine that those who have acquired their Hoarders R Us badges have likely stacked the stuff to the rafters and may be enjoying what we’ve known all along. Could start a whole new home improvement industry.

Thank heaven my apartment is equipped with a state of the art Toto with a wash-let. I might have to resort to using that though I’ve managed to avoid doing so since first traveling to Japan in 1998. We’ll see what devil-ups as Jean Chretien used to say.

Meanwhile, with luggage delivered and not having had breakfast, I wandered into Citron in the 15 degree sunshine. To my delight, Jonathan the owner, happened to be in and was overjoyed to see me. Likewise. I haven’t seen a photo of me looking this happy since 2018. Tadaima! I’m home.

Then on rainy, rather gloomy and 5-degree day three (which according to the Weather Network felt like 2 degrees), Sogetsu administration contacted me to let me know that a teacher had offered to let me join her class in Meguro. Plus I found tissue. No not toilet paper exactly, but a 12-pack of flushable pocket tissue. Showers of blessings. We’re good to go.

 

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Up and Away: Thoughts Before Flight

I’m poised for takeoff to Tokyo during a COVID-19 crisis that might play out any number of ways. Though they said the same of SARS and it did not happen, phrases such as possible world pandemic are used more frequently in the media now. Face masks (even though their usefulness as a prophylactic is questionable) are impossible to find in Tokyo or Victoria. It’s a challenge to proceed with caution and prudence in the face of numerous uncertainties.

Nothing is without risk. Every day is a gamble, never a promise. Any given day might result in a vast range of unknowns–good or bad. Even doing nothing and going nowhere aren’t safe. Not one day comes with a guarantee that anyone anywhere will live through it. That we (mostly) do day after day after day is enough to make the mundane miraculous.

Though it’s anything but easy to achieve it, in the face of uncertainties the Buddha offers wise counsel: Keep your mind level. If your mind is level the whole world is level.

So I dare and soar toward my next Tokyo experience—whatever it holds. Today my dreams and I lift off. Here’s praying for no turbulence and safe landing.

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Living My Dream: Tokyo 2020

The other day, after waiting in a short checkout line at Canadian Tire, I put my purchases on the counter and greet the woman across from me.

Good afternoon. How are you today?

Living my dream, is her deadpan reply. A snort-worthy rim-shot line if I ever heard one.

A dream is an odd, elusive thing. Sometimes it hijacks the mind and draws you away from the present moment. Then again, the force of a dream is not unlike the pull of gravity on the course of a river toward the sea. It is here and now as well as then and there in every way.  Paradoxes being what they are, a dream centers you in the present without contradiction.

Rumi said: Let yourself be silently drawn by the strange pull of what you really love. It will not lead you astray.

So. Here goes. Once more I acquiesce to the “strange pull.” In a few days I will return to Tokyo to resume my ikebana studies and reconnect with old friends.

Last year this time while in the throes of moving into my new home, any notion I entertained of doing so was a vague oh maybe someday laced with well, we’ll see what happens.

Then relaxing after another day’s work by stumbling down a variety of YouTube rabbit holes, I click on an arresting TEDXBigSky talk by Ulla Suokko: Do You See the Signs of the Universe?

Not long after, as I look out my living room window I notice a white plastic bag the wind has blown into the rhododendron.

On it bold red letters spell Edo. Caught on a branch it hangs there for several days (in case I somehow miss the sign, I suppose).

It is not the only sign. I keep a list on my phone each time another appears. Finally, much as Suokko did, I say to the Universe: Okay, okay I get it. Now give me the dollar signs.

Toyota launches its Olympic campaign: Start your impossible.

As an act of faith I sell the jewelry I no longer wear which languishes in a drawer doing nothing of value for me. My income tax refund comes in.

When optimism toward the venture begins to flag, out of nowhere many other signs appear. Among them an Air Canada advert asks and answers: Where will your dream take you? Making your dreams travel.

Even so, it takes months before I am willing to risk or commit. However, after I book my tickets and celebrate at Vista 18, “Leaving on a Jet Plane” plays as I sip bubbly and gaze over the orange infused strait thinking of Japan.

Since starting, all systems have been go. Bit by bit, I’m packing up and moving again. A blissful momentum not unlike a gentle, guiding hand has smoothed the pathway forward as one by one the numerous elements that must align in order to succeed in such a venture click into place.

Poet Nayyirah Waheed’s words give me focus and loft.

              live that life. the one that gives you

              breath. and. takes your breath away.

By great good fortune (and perhaps the will of the Kami-sama) I can return to an apartment in the same building I occupied in 2017 and 2018. A short walk from ikebana classes at Sogetsu Kaikan and minutes from the Ginza Line, I will once again savour the charming streets of Gaiemmae and call them home sweet home.

 

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Where–How–Why–to Begin?

In Joke Show on Netflix, comedian Michelle Wolf said that a blog is conversation that no one wants to have with you. Continue reading

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Christmas Lights Butchart Gardens

The closest thing Victoria has to rival the Christmas lights of Japan is the show on view at Butchart Gardens. Keen to view the displays as close to Christmas as possible, I ventured out yesterday around 4 o’clock thinking I might catch sunset too. Well dream on. Continue reading

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My Love Affair with the Christmas Tree

I must have inherited my love of Christmas trees from my paternal grandmother who kept hers up until Orthodox Christmas in January. After everyone else had taken theirs down and boxed all the baubles and tinsel, the magic continued at her house. Continue reading

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The Culture Map: A Book Review

Today I return to an old love besides Japan—the book review. Continue reading

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4.20 You in Ikebana: Experiments in Personal Expression

In November 2018, I completed Level 4 of the Sogetsu School’s course in ikebana studies in Tokyo. That achieved, I was asked to choose a flower name and granted certification. Afterwards I returned to Canada, bought and moved into my new home, and resumed ikebana studies with the class I joined in Victoria. Continue reading

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Tokyo Is Safe–And It Isn’t

Depending on which source you consult, Tokyo, a city of 14 million, boasts distinction as the safest city in the world. Continue reading

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Cultural Habits From Japan: Thumbs Up, Thumbs Down

After traveling extensively through Japan and living in Tokyo for several months at a time, I’ve integrated a number of habits acquired there with my life in Canada. However, some things done in Japan simply do not fly with me.

For instance, nothing will entice me to sniffle instead of blowing my nose when hot soup, allergies, a virus or cold winds cause it to run. Nothing. Not there and not here. When in Japan I make sure to step into a washroom or discretely turn away and dab, though I wonder at my solicitude for Japanese sensibilities when I have regularly seen men booger mining on the trains. Seriously. It’s a widely publicized fact that the rudeness of foreigners offends the locals; however, that lack of charm works both ways.

Nor will I loudly slurp noodles and hot drinks. Perhaps it improves the flavour. I won’t dispute the connoisseurs on that point, but I will happily sacrifice a modicum of flavour for the noiseless consumption of food.

Ramen-mad Asia can’t get enough of noodles whether instant in a cup or handmade. In Kyoto Station the entire 9th floor Ramen Street offers numerous variations to tantalize noodle fandom. Specialty noodle shops are everywhere across the country, and Yokohama boasts a Cup-of-Noodles Museum where you can design your own and take them home as souvenirs.

To each her own. Carb-high noodles are simply not my thing. I’ll eat them, of course. An occasional pasta dish is not distasteful; however, I don’t make a habit of it.

And running right behind gross odours, I find nothing quite as off-putting as a hot, steamy room full of heads bent over noodle bowls sucking up and slurping the stuff accompanied by copious sniffling. It reminds me too much of troughs on the farm. I’ll pass.

That said, I make an exception for soba noodles, especially if an artisan who has spent a lifetime growing his own buckwheat handcrafts them. Yum! And since I once saw an elegant woman lift her noodles out of the bowl and into her soup spoon, that’s what I do.

That method is also less likely to splash soup all over my chin and clothes. If anyone wonders what the weird foreigner is doing or finds her odd, should I care? Frankly, I don’t. Cultural exchange is not a one way street but involves give and take. Deal with it.

Although I complied with the custom in living spaces, hotels, restaurants, schools, castles, temples and shrines while in Japan, I also can’t get behind the tradition of no shoes in the house or no socks in the genkan (the sunken area in front of the entrance door where shoes are left when not put into the closet).

While many people all over the world choose the no shoes inside habit, if I’m satisfied that my soles are free of substances I don’t wish to track in, I find strict observance of such a rule impractical.  Because I find slippers a nuisance, I mainly wear socks or go barefooted inside. However, I can’t be bothered to drop everything I am carrying to immediately remove my shoes on entering only to have to pick everything up again. Way too much bother. But my Japanese friends gasped in dismay when I took three steps back into my apartment with perfectly clean boots on to grab the gloves I’d left on the chair.

That said, I do prefer and have adopted the idea of making the closet nearest the entrance into a dedicated shoe closet. In homes which often have limited and windowless closet space in bedrooms, I like to separate shoes from clothing. Then I can counter residual foot odor with deodorizers and have my shoes handy as I exit.  Quite sensible.

However, that’s not the end of the footwear hassles In Japan. Once shoes are off and stored in the closet adjacent to the genkan, slippers are worn inside. If there is a dedicated tatami room the slippers come off and only socks are allowed on tatami (flooring made of woven rushes).

To use the toilet room you step out of your house slippers and into toilet slippers. Then you must remember to switch to your regular slippers on the way out or face a good deal of laughter as you sashay into the room in bright pink toire surippa. When I first traveled to Japan in 1998, I spent more waking hours attending to my footwear in those two weeks than I had my entire lifetime prior. And coming from a shoe-queen, that’s saying something.

In addition, if you haven’t stepped out of the bathtub and into your slippers shortly before heading to bed, it’s customary in Japan to wipe your feet with a damp towel because feet are considered dirty. This is a habit I’ve made my own, not because I believe that the condition of my feet is gross per se, but because—like brushing my teeth and washing my face or applying cream before bed—it feels good. Reason enough.

 

A most agreeable evening ritual in Japan is that interlude spent soaking in the bath before bed. That’s a custom I can get behind. I was lucky to have deep soaker tubs in my Surrey and Abbotsford homes. The typical Western tubs which barely hold nine inches of water cannot compare to a tub you can sink into where the water reaches to the bottoms of your earlobes.  Japanese mineral bath salts, some with specific healing properties of various onsen (hot springs) throughout the nation, are a wonderful, aromatic addition to the bath.  Bliss!

I think one of my favourite new habits, however, has been to keep my tea in airtight Japanese tea tins. These are crafted in many styles, with a variety of materials and in numerous sizes. I’ve collected several covered in colourful washi paper. I especially love the moment I replace the lid and slowly turn it until it clicks into place. Do that and the patterns on the paper line up. Perfectly.

I know the Buddha says the search for perfection outside of ourselves is a cause of suffering. (And searching for impossible perfection within isn’t?)  Give me any little moment of delight in an imperfect world that—click—never fails to spark joy.

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Photo Credits: Cup of Noodles Museum Website, Kyoto Station Website, Genkan Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Fg2,Tea Tins https://kotodocan.com/ No photo credit available for spoon shot

 

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